Vanoli’s Very Good Shirts

by Dato’ Nicholas Pinder

That’s a very interesting square-end collar on the shirt above. The intricate work of master shirtmaker Paul Vanoli of Vanoli Bespoke, London. It might not be a style you would want to wear every day, but Paul has some sensible advice for shirt acquisition:‘For every four safe shirts you order, go a little mad with the fifth one.’ Says Tweed Pig. 

Go a little mad

For their bespoke shirts, Vanoli use cloths from the UK and Italy. A customer pattern is prepared and the shirt made up according to taste in terms of fit, collar shape and cuffs. You might plumb for a rather sophisticated cocktail cuff in marcella cotton, as below.

If the landscape changes

The pattern can be called upon for any future shirts, but — as they delicately put it — adapted ‘if the landscape changes’.

Former Kilgour employee, Paul started the Vanoli Bespoke in 2014, and delights in satisfying his customer’s requirements and giving a contemptuous v-sign to the fast-fashion industry, rejecting the advances of ‘ pretentious PR companies, egotistical designers or [deceitful] magazines’ whose editorials are determined according to the brands willing to advertise.

That’s fightin’ talk. And we’re on Paul’s side, right chaps?

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